In a time when more and more couples are opting for less conventional weddings a formal wedding can seem a bit dated. But don't be put off. While the wedding dress has always encapsulated the femininity of the bride, black tie for the groom can be very masculine and very sexy. It is this contrast that is, in fact, at the heart of the look of a traditional wedding. 

The choice between formal and semi-formal wear will set the tone for the whole day, with formal wear guaranteeing uniformity and solemnity to the occasion. Be prepared though, once you go down the formal route there is a lot to learn. Not only do you need to know the nuances of morning wear and evening suits, you will also have to decide on a lapel, a tie and a shirt. Thankfully, this guide should help you navigate the minefield. 

Tuxedo Styles - There are many different styles to choose from but they can be categorised into three broad types based on lapel: Notch Lapel - a notch is cut out between the collar and the lapel; Peak Lapel - the top of the lapel is peaked sharply upward and outward; and Shawl Collar - there is no change from the lapel to the collar; the lapel is just a continuation of the collar. 

While the lapel is a matter of personal choice, selecting the other elements of tuxedo style depends on the time of day. Traditionally, the day breaks down into two periods: 

Formal Evening (worn after 6pm), which includes: Traditional - a black tuxedo with matching formal trousers, co-ordinating waistcoat or cummerbund, and bow tie; Ultraformal - Black tails, white accessories and white tie; and Contemporary - a contoured short or long full dress coat with matching formal trousers, wing collar shirt, bow tie, cummerbund or optional dress. 

Daytime (worn until 6pm), which includes: Traditional - the cutaway coat, usually grey with striped trousers, grey waistcoat, white wing or laydown collar, and ascot; or Contemporary - a short or long black or grey coat with striped trousers, white wing or laydown collar shirt and optional grey waistcoat. 

Nowadays, formal wear etiquette is much more relaxed with the only stricture being that white tie and tails are kept to after-dark hours. Tuxedos range from the standard single-breasted (as worn by James Bond) to double breasted. Tailoring can be in silk, wool, mohair, or a blend and comes in black, grey, white or ivory. Textured fabrics, often sporting a woven stripe or pattern, are also becoming popular. Single or double-breasted waist-coats are an optional accessory that can be worn with almost any tuxedo ensemble. The waistcoat usually matches the bow tie and optional cummerbund. 

Black-Tie Terms
Ascot - a double-knot tie with wide ends that fold over the chest and is fastened with a stick pin. It is usually worn with a winged-collar tuxedo shirt to accessorise a morning suit. 
Cross Over Tie - a band of fabric pointed at the ends, which crosses over and fastens at the neck. 
Director's Suit - a grey suit jacket worn with turned down collar shirt and four-in-hand tie, vest and grey striped trousers. 
Four-in-hand tie - like a day-tie but with more formal fabric. 
Mandarin collar - a shirt designed to be specifically be worn without a tie. 
Peak lapel - the top of the tuxedo lapel is peaked sharply upward and outward. 
Spencer Jacket - like a tail coat without tails. The front dips below the waist and the hem at the front dips in points.
Winged-Collar Shirt - the traditional tuxedo shirt featuring a stand-up collar with ends folded over to create wings.