Malcolm Rogers visits Adare in Co. Limerick and takes time to reflect
on its renowned beauty.
I’m
sitting here in the sunshine in Adare, on a warm April’s day with the cherry
blossom beginning to bud, and the daffodils blooming on the river banks.
I’m debating whether to pop into The Maigue for lunch (I went there yesterday
and very satisfactory it was) or just have a light lunch at the Inn Between,
also on Main Street, sandwiched between the thatched cottage.
I wish you could be here with me, because it really is a beautiful, restful
vista, with a pleasing afternoon in prospect. It’s a tough job, I know,
but thank God it’s me doing it.
But, seeing you’re probably stuck at home somewhere, I thought I should
recount to you 10 things about Adare which might whet your interest.
1. Adare is widely regarded as one of the prettiest towns on Ireland.
It stands proudly on the east bank of the River Maigue (from whence the
restaurant gets its name), a cluster of medieval buildings, thatched cottages,
abbeys, castles and antique shops.
2. Its ancient history is lost, but stretches a long way back. Since
then it has played host to Normans, English, Geraldines and busloads of
tourists.
3. Terrible history has continued into modern times. A local post office
was the site in 1996 of the killing of Garda Jerry McCabe by the IRA. As
so often in Ireland, melancholy history clashes jaggedly with the soporific
beauty of the surroundings.
4. There has long been a significant religious element in the town —
Franciscans, Augustinians and German Lutherans have all left their mark.
An Augustinian Priory sits hard by the bridge (straddling the Maigue
river with its 14 arches). Founded in 1316, many of the original buildings
remain in good condition.
The main chapel still serves as the local Church of Ireland, and is open
to all, whether Protestant, Catholic or Dissenter. Entering this place is
like opening a door into Medieval Ireland.
5. If you’re looking for the Catholic church, you’ll have to head back
into town and look for the Trinitarian Abbey.
This place of worship actually beats the Augustinians by over 80 years,
having been founded in 1230 by, wait for it, “The Order of the Redemption
of the Captives” — the only house of this order left in Ireland today.
6. If you’re looking for a slightly longer dander, head south west towards
Rathkeale and two miles out of town you’ll come to the fantastically atmospheric
ruins of Garraunboy Castle, formerly owned by the Faltagh family.
7. Just in case your beginning to think it’s all castles, churches, priories
and monasteries (did I mention the Cistercian Abbey yet? Never, mind I’ll
get back to it), Adare also boasts several hostelries.
If
you see a photo of Adare Manor, perched beside a river, and flanked by formal
gardens, you’ll think for a moment you’ve got your brochures mixed up and
this is a French chateau in the Loire valley. But no, it’s not the Languedoc
— it’s the sweet county Limerick, and this huge gothic revival pile was
built in 1832 by the Second Earl of Dunraven. Dunraven’s Dunroamin’ in fact.
The structure is a series of visual allusions to famous Irish and English
homes that the Dunravens admired. The lettered text carved into the front
of the south parapet reads: “Except the Lord build the house, then labour
is but lost that built it.”
You can visit the house, the formal gardens or stay a night — but it’ll
cost you. If you’re walking in the garden tread softly — it is rumoured
that this is the hallowed ground where the potato was first introduced into
these islands from America.
8. It’s estimated that Limerick once had 2,700 of them throughout the
county. No, not pubs — but tower houses, or strongholds which aren’t quite
grand castles.
Matrix Castle (probably derived from the Irish ‘máthair’ or mother, or
perhaps the ‘matres’ a sanctuary) is a couple of miles down the road from
Adare. Beautifully restored, the place is open for banquets, tours, bed
& breakfast. Tel 00-353-69 64284.
9. Music there is aplenty, with Bill Chawke’s and Collins’ Bar in the
centre of Adare both boasting traditional sessions the year round.
But there’s no shortage of charming hostelries to either wet your whistle
in, or indeed to play your whistle in.
10. Overall, Adare is a great place. Just sorry you couldn’t have been
here with me.
Of course, if you hurry, you could join me for lunch — it’s only 15 minutes
from Shannon Airport after all . . .
I’m
sitting here in the sunshine in Adare, on a warm April’s day with the cherry
blossom beginning to bud, and the daffodils blooming on the river banks.
If
you see a photo of Adare Manor, perched beside a river, and flanked by formal
gardens, you’ll think for a moment you’ve got your brochures mixed up and
this is a French chateau in the Loire valley. But no, it’s not the Languedoc
— it’s the sweet county Limerick, and this huge gothic revival pile was
built in 1832 by the Second Earl of Dunraven. Dunraven’s Dunroamin’ in fact.