In the first of our new weekly travel features on Ireland,
Dermot O’Gara checks out the many attractions of one of Europe’s
trendiest cities, Dublin.
No trip to Ireland would be complete without a visit to the fair
city of Dublin, where Molly Malone long plied her trade selling
fresh cockles and mussels!
A truly European capital, Dublin’s attraction lies as much in
its vibrant cosmopolitan outlook as it does in its history, culture
and stunning architecture.
Dublin is now regarded as one of the liveliest cities in Europe,
and people young and old come from all over the world to sample
the hospitality and entertainment that the city offers.
While there is little doubt that Dublin has changed over the
decades, the city has managed to hold on to much of its charm and
intimacy. Local pubs are still frequented by local people, and the
city center is very compact, so that it is often easier to walk
than get a bus or taxi.
Dublin boasts numerous attractions reflecting the richness and
diversity of her traditions and her people.
Trinity College
Established in 1592, Trinity College in College Green has become
one of the most prestigious colleges in the world, currently boasting
an enrolment of almost 14,000. Luminaries such as Oscar Wilde, Samuel
Beckett, former President Mary Robinson and U2 manager Paul McGuinness
have passed through its portals at one stage or another.
The college contains some of the most significant architectural
gems of the city, including the Old Library building where the famous
Book of Kells is on permanent display.
Temple Bar Area
Temple Bar is Dublin’s Cultural Quarter, although as recently as
12 years ago it was little more than a collection of derelict buildings
and vacant sites. Through a partnership between the Irish government,
Dublin City Council and local artists and traders, the 28-acre area
has become a hugely successful urban renewal project, supporting
a colorful combination of bars, restaurants, galleries and theaters.
The area is bounded by the south quays of the River Liffey, Dame
Street, Fishamble Street and Westmoreland Street.
The GPO
First opened in 1818, the General Post Office on O’Connell Street
is the work of architect Francis Johnston. Rebels captured this
fine building in the Easter rising of 1916, and Rebel leader Padraig
Pearse read the proclamation of the republic from its steps during
the insurrection. The building was badly damaged in the hostilities,
and remained closed for 13 years.
St. Patrick's Cathedral
St. Patrick’s Cathedral on Patrick Street is named after Ireland’s
Patron Saint, who is said to have performed his first baptisms at
a well in the area. This has been a Christian site for about 1500
years. The current building is thought to date from some time towards
the end of the 12th century. The building boasts numerous religious
and military artifacts, along side a statue of Jonathon Swift, dean
of the Cathedral from 1713 to 1745.
National Museum
Many of Ireland’s national treasures such as the Tara Brooch and
the Ardagh Chalice are housed in the National Museum. The museum
was established in 1890 in Kildare Street, and while much of its
collection still there, some is housed in Collins’ Barracks on the
other side of the city.
Garden Of Remebrance
Situated in Parnell Square two minutes walk from O’Connell Street,
the Garden of Remembrance was opened in 1966 to commemorate those
who died for the cause of Irish freedom. It is dominated by a large
sculpture of four swans, depicting the story of the Children of
Lir, one of Ireland’s oldest legends.
Theater
As home to Oscar Wilde, Brendan Behan, Sean O’Casey and George Bernard
Shaw, to name but a few, it’s no wonder that Dublin’s theater tradition
runs rich and deep. The world famous Abbey Theatre on Abbey Street
is Ireland’s national theater, while venues such as The Gate on
Parnell Square, the Gaiety on South King Street, and the Olympia
on Dame Street, all present a combination of well-known Irish productions
and high quality contemporary plays.
Dublin For The Family
Ireland's capital offers a great range of kid-friendly activities
too, and you won’t have to go to far to get to them. You’ll find
a ton of stuff to do in the city center, and even more within a
bus or train ride.
Dublin Zoo in Phoenix Park is one of the oldest in the world,
but also one of the most modern, and has been a family favorite
in Dublin for generations.
The Temple Bar area runs programs of kids’ events including street
theater, music workshops, circuses and much more. Many of these
are located in the Ark Cultural Center for Children on Eustace Street.
Or take them on a tour of Viking Dublin, on the Viking Splash
Tour (departs from outside St. Patrick’s Cathedral). You will be
driven around Dublin in a former U.S. army amphibious craft, before
taking a trip on the water in Dublin’s Grand Canal basin. A must-do!
Drinking And Eating
There are pubs all over Dublin to suit all tastes. “Designer” bars
catering for the younger drinker include Pravda on Liffey Street
Lower, Zanzibar on Ormond Quay Lower, and the Chocolate Bar on Harcourt
Street, while traditionalists might have a preference for establishments
like the Palace on Fleet Street, Mulligan’s on Poolbeg Street, or
the Stag’s Head on Dame Court.
If you’re really adventurous, why not take a short trip (about
10 minutes by bus) from downtown Dublin to Glasnevin and enjoy a
pint in Kavanagh’s, known to locals as The Gravediggers. Situated
in Prospect Square, right beside historic Glasnevin Cemetery, The
Gravediggers has mercifully remained untouched by the hand of modernity,
and is choc full of local characters and lively chat.
Or try Gaffney’s in Fairview. A traditional pub and hot bed of
debate and discussion for sports fans, especially when Dublin are
playing Gaelic football in nearby Croke Park.
The city boasts dozens and dozens of top class restaurants catering
for every palate. You could try Gallagher’s in Temple Bar which
specializes in traditional Irish dishes, or even one of Dublin’s
many excellent ethnic restaurants such as the Indian, Jaipur on
South Great Georges Street, or the Italian, Little Sicily in Parliament
Street, where they serve steamed mussels so good that Molly Malone
herself would have been proud!