Malcolm Rogers savours the delights of a tranquil weekend in
Foxford on the River Moy.
Foxford
is approximately 135 miles north west of Dublin, on the River Moy
and in the lee of the Ox Mountains, about halfway between Castlebar
and Ballina.
The nearest airports are Knock and Sligo.
History of the town:
Foxford is at the gateway to the ancient territory of Tirawley.
However, its importance in the area dates back to the 1890s when
a woollen mill was opened and Foxford became — and remains — famous
for its rugs and blankets.
For most people who lived there at that time the lasting memory
of the mill was the sound of the buzzer that hooted three times
a day.
The woollen mill still flourishes, producing rugs for customers
the world over.
There’s even an exhibition centre to explain about the history
of the carpet in Connacht — and there’s also a fine tea room to
retire to.
Any other reason to go to Foxford?
Well, apart from being a delightful place, Foxford is the main centre
for anglers and hill walkers in these parts. For fisherfolk — whose
numbers have included Jeremy Paxman, Chris Tarrant and Jack Charlton
— there is the afore-mentioned River Moy, or the two loughs which
are on the doorstep: Lough Conn and Lough Cullen.
God in his infinite wisdom is believed not to detract from your
lifespan the time you spend fishing. But on the shores of Lough
Conn this divine benevolence hardly seems important — because you’ve
already reached heaven.
In the morning pillars of mist float ghost-like over the still
waters while herons fly off towards the Ox Mountains; in the evening
as the sun dies the place is positively ethereal in its atmosphere.
Are there any particular pubs you’d recommend?
Too right. Hennigans (tel 00 353 94 56 183) on the main street (Pound
Street) must not be missed. You’ll get cask-conditioned, party-size,
batteries-included cráic, with the finest session in the west of
Ireland taking place at the weekend.
The enormously talented Murphy brothers hold forth on fiddles,
flutes and bodhrán — with the emphasis on entertainment as well
as authentic traditional music.
Hosts P. J. and Maureen — one-time residents of north Harrow
in Middlesex, but now back home in Mayo — give everyone a warm welcome.
The cráic here is regularly in excess of the statutory 90 laid
down by EU regulations.
So any famous Foxford folk then?
Indeed. None other than Admiral William Brown ‘the father of Argentina’s
Navy.’ As well as founding a navy in South America, he is seen as
the liberator of a whole nation, a man whose influence spread to
other South American countries.
You can visit his cottage in the town and just beside St. Michael’s
Church there’s a statue dedicated to him.
William’s uncle was parish priest of Foxford and was arrested
for alleged complicity in the 1798 insurrection.
Any other noteworthy residents?
Outside Foxford is Strade, birthplace of Michael Davitt, founder
of the Land League, who brought trade unionism to Ireland and an
excellent museum tells the whole story.
And a good place to stay?
You could do a lot worse than Healy’s Hotel (00 353 94 56443) which
is on the banks of Lough Conn. This is primarily an anglers’ hotel,
an old coaching inn whose restaurant has a first-class name locally.
Foxford
is approximately 135 miles north west of Dublin, on the River Moy
and in the lee of the Ox Mountains, about halfway between Castlebar
and Ballina.