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An attack of the Arts

Malcolm Rogers surveys the seven great Irish art treasures you should see before you die.

By Malcolm Rogers

Ireland’s cultural and artistic treasures tend to be in the literary or musical field. Anyone can buy a Beckett play or a Yeats poem, and you have in your hands one of the gems of what we fondly call western civilization. Similarly you can buy yourself a tin whistle, learn a few airs and for a few pounds take part in one of the finest bodies of traditional music extant in the world.

If it’s beauty for the eye you’re after then have we got views for you. The Antrim Coast Road, recently voted the fifth most impressive sight in the world, is only one of many awe-inspiring vistas Ireland has to offer.

Because of our oral and literary achievements, the perception has grown that we have few must-see paintings, Jack-the-lad architecture or stunning sculptures. But Irish art has produced its own inspiring body of masterpieces which everyone should see once in their life-time.

The Book of Kells

The Book of Kells — also known as the Book of Columba — is an ornately illuminated manuscript (but don’t ask them to switch it on, folks!) produced by Celtic monks around AD 800. It is quite simply one of the most beautiful man-made creations you’ll ever see. It’s reckoned today to be one of the most valuable books in the world and has been described as the zenith of Western calligraphy and illumination. Written in Latin on the velum of, reputedly, 170 cattle — the four gospels of the Bible are decorated with numerous colourful illustrations and illuminations. It is on permanent display at the Trinity College Library in Dublin.

The Book of Durrow

Near the Book of Kells sits the almost-as-impressive Book of Durrow, a 7th century illuminated manuscript made (probably) at Durrow Abbey, Co. Offaly. Some 200 years older than the Book of Kells the Durrow tome is also a Gospel Book — possibly the oldest complete illuminated gospel from Ireland or Britain still surviving.

In the 16th century when Durrow Abbey was dissolved the book disappeared but happily was found a century later.

The beautiful Irish five pound notes of the “Series B” (ie late 20th century issue) included an excerpt from the book and were themselves surely the most beautiful currency in the world (you can view them in the National Museum of Ireland, Dublin).

The Ardagh Chalice

Ireland’s foremost jewelled metal art treasure is currently housed in the National Museum of Ireland, Dublin and is considered the jewel in the crown of the museum and indeed the nation. The beautifully-proportioned chalice is the finest example of early medieval metalwork ever to have come to light. Some six inches high it is made of silver, bronze and gold. The design and decoration indicates that the people (or person) who made it knew their art as well as any craftsman in the world at the time. Stand back and marvel at this ancient Irish art treasure.

The Liffey Swim by Jack B Yeats

Jack B Yeats, brother of WB, started his career as an illustrator and cartoonist — trivia fans will be tickled to learn that Jack produced the first cartoon strip version of Sherlock Holmes in 1894. Oh and if you’re in the market for this sort of thing he also won a silver medal at the 1924 Olympic Games in painting.

However it was Yeats’s evocation of the Irish countryside which is his lasting epitaph. He believed that ‘a painter must be part of the land and of the life he paints’ and The Liffey Swim is as good an example of that as you’ll find. This delicately beautiful watercolour is housed in the National Gallery of Ireland, Merrion Square West, Dublin 2.

A Family

by Louis le Brocquy

Born in Dublin of Huguenot stock Louis le Brocquy is one of the foremost Irish painters of the 20th century.

Louis won the prestigious Premio Acquisito Internationale with A Family — a painting which was subsequently included in the historic exhibition Fifty Years of Modern Art at Brussels World Fair 1958. At the time of its first showing it was accused of being ‘an unwholesome and satanic distortion of natural beauty’, but it’s now acknowledged as a highly-significant work in the history of 20th-century art.

It is currently housed in the National Gallery of Ireland, Dublin.

The Muiredach Cross, Monasterboice

The Monastery of Monasterboice, founded by St. Buithe mac Bronach, is home to one of the finest High Crosses in the world. As many as six high crosses stood at this site in the middle of the pastoral, rolling landscape of Co. Louth. The Muiredach Cross (south cross) and west cross still stand, almost undamaged, looked over by an almost intact round tower. The intricate stonework, the fine masonic lines of the structure, the testament to Ireland’s golden age of Christianity and the impressive setting make this one of Europe’s great art treasures.

Brú na Bóinne, Co. Meath

Ireland has no Taj Mahal, no Alhambra and no Sistine Chapel. But it does have one of the oldest buildings in the world, Brú na Bóinne, or Newgrange. Built some 5000 years ago it is more than 500 years older than the Great Pyramid and predates Stonehenge by about 1,000 years. Aside from its longevity Brú na Bóinne is also the venue of a startling phenomenon every year. On December 21 a moment of drama is played out and has been for some 5,000 years in a row. At dawn a pencil of sunlight penetrates the Neolithic burial chamber of Newgrange, lighting it up for 20 minutes before darkness falls for another year.

The huge structure of Brú na Bóinne built by our forebears is perfectly aligned so that the first rays of the winter solstice sun pierce through a small opening in the chamber’s roof and travel 19 metres along a narrow stone passage to focus on the entrance to the grave. Never mind the Hanging Gardens of Babylon — this is one of the great architectural gems of the world.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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