| Historic hotel is back open for business
 “This
then is the chief city of the aliens. The hotel to which I had been directed
is a respectable old edifice, much frequented by families from the country,
and where the solitary traveller may likewise find society. For he may
use the Shelbourne as an hotel or a boarding house, in which case he is
comfortably accommodated, and magically conducted by clerks and other
officers.”
That was William Makepeace Thackeray waxing lyrical about the Shelbourne
Hotel in his The Irish Sketchbook. The man who wrote Barry Lyndon and
Vanity Fair would be delighted that the comfortable old edifice has been
made even more opulent of late, with e100million being spent on it over
the last six months.
The legendary five star Dublin digs re-opened for business last month
the crystal chandeliers glinted, the champagne sparkled and the grand
piano tinkled away in the background and Dublin society had its headquarters
back.
Ranking among the world’s great hotels the Shelbourne has retained all
its grandeur, presiding over St. Stephen’s Green and providing a
haven not just for the aristocracy, but politicians, journalists and horse-racing
experts. Although spruced up, this favourite haunt of the chattering classes
has retained its familiar charm Thackeray would not have been disappointed
had he attended the re-launch of this Dublin legend.
The first thing guests see on entering is the lovingly restored Lord Mayor’s
Lounge, where original coffee tables with fresh glass tops are attended
by newly upholstered chairs.
The silk-covered walls boast a veritable treasure trove of Irish art
including a large Louis le Brocquy, the leading Irish artist of this century.
In fact so great are the art riches on store it would put you in mind
of the story of Jeffrey Archer’s penthouse flat. Apparently he directs
visitors to the toilet with a flourish, saying: “Turn first right
after the Picasso.”
At the Shelbourne, the loo is the first left after the le Brocquy.
The Horseshoe Bar, a Dublin institution, has had something of a re-vamp
but the original character of the snug has remains. The city’s theatrical
and literary society have long regarded the bar as their spiritual home,
a situation which seems set to be revived.
But there have been innovations which any passing 19th century novelist
definitely wouldn’t recognise. The new No 27 Bar and Lounge and
the Saddle Room restaurant are both radical developments. The bar takes
the place of the old Side Door restaurant, and is intended to attract
Dublin’s wealthy but younger set with plenty of double-digit drinks:
a signature Black Velvet cocktail, made with Moet & Chandon Champagne
and Guinness will set you back e18.50. However the price does include
a free look at the Belfast artist Victor Richardson’s views from
around St. Stephen’s Green which adorn the walls.
The Saddle Room restaurant boasts a couple of gold-lined booths for that
added romantic extra privacy, although the main room is plushness personified
Sample dishes include roasted organic chicken with herbs and mashed potato
e29, ‘gin and tonic’ grilled salmon with caramelised cauliflower
e27 and tiger prawns with stewed fennel e18.
Next door, the ballroom, used by Ireland’s rugby players after their
historic win over England earlier this year, is set to assume its primary
position as Irish society’s danceteria to be seen in.
The ballroom leads on to the Oliver St. John Gogarty room, based in the
doctor’s former consulting room.
It’s now a conference suite which can be used as a private dinner
party suite. William Thackeray once said: “Dinner parties are given
mostly in the middle classes by way of revenge.” Which certainly
couldn’t be applied to the Shelbourne. The decadence of the surroundings
look much more the setting for parties where all the married men (or all
the married women) have to get together and go: “All right, here’s
what we say happened.”
Historic hotel
The Shelbourne has a reasonable claim to being one of the most-historic
hotels in these islands, at the centre of Ireland’s political and
cultural life since its inception.
During the Civil War the Shelbourne was home to the new Irish Army and
from February to May 1922, its old walls witnessed the drafting of the
Constitution. Bunreacht na hÉireann was drawn up in Room 112, under
the chairmanship of Michael Collins.
The Shelbourne has also been a meeting point for many of Ireland’s
musical and literary figures including Count John McCormack, Seán
Ó Riada, Patrick Kavanagh, Brendan Behan and, more recently, Seamus
Heaney.
The novelist George Moore spent a great deal of time at the hotel, and
wrote of it in 1886: “The Shelbourne is not a hotel, it is a way
of life, and what lifestyle could be more delightful.”
International guests have included John and Jacqueline Kennedy, Maureen
O’Hara, James Cagney, John Wayne, Stan Laurel and Oliver Hardy,
Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Rock Hudson, Burl Ives, Orson Wells
and Rita Hayworth.
Many of the hotel’s most famous guests have now given their names
to suites, the most expensive being the Princess Grace Suite currently
e1,800 per night.
Other heritage suites, at e650 a night, are named after hotel founder
Martin Burke, the Earl of Shelbourne, Eamon de Valera, Charles Stewart
Parnell, Peter O’Toole and Michael Collins. Regular rooms are priced
at e355. A far cry from William Makepeace Thackeray’s day. As he
recorded in his Irish Sketchbook: “A guest can be comfortably accommodated
at the very moderate daily charge of six-and-eightpence. A perpetual luncheon
is thereafter spread, a plentiful dinner and tay and coffee and cakes
to satisfy the largest appetite.”
n The Shelbourne Hotel
27 St Stephen’s Green
Dublin 2.
Tel: 00 353 (0)1 663 4500
Other Dublin hotel deals available:
The five star Jury’s in Pembroke Road, Ballsbridge, is currently
offering double rooms for e131, or £45 per person, including breakfast.
Contact www.centralr.com
The four star Morrison Hotel in Dublin the hippest hotel in town successfully
blends 18th century style with modern design to create a great atmosphere.
The interior is a mix of high ceilings, stone floors and beautiful handcrafted
Irish carpets, whilst original artwork by Clea Van der Grijjin adorns
the lobby walls. With great views over the River Liffey, the Morrison
is a great place for a springtime treat.
Double rooms £151 including breakfast. Contact www.centralr.com
La Stampa Hotel and Spa, 35 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 is a unique property
with individually-decorated rooms, Moroccan theme café bar, French
brasserie, Eastern Spa and Royal Thai restaurant. Double room e145 or
£50 per person, including breakfast. Contact www.lastminute.com
Deal of the week:
Deal of the week is listed on www.lastminute.com and is listed as an “un-named
hotel “close to Croke Park, the city and the airport”. A standard
twin room will set you back £42, or 21 quid per person, breakfast
not included. |
