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Lovely Slovenia
By Malcolm Rogers
 The history
and politics of Slovenia have been somewhat iffy these last few centuries,
what with it having variously been part of the Holy Roman, Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian
and Habsburg empires. More recently the former Yugoslav confederation
held sway here. No wonder an old Slovenian proverb announces: “All
roads do not lead to Rome.”
This omni-coveted land is now part of the EU, its 2million delightful
citizens surrounded by Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia — with
a 29-mile Adriatic coastline thrown in for good measure.
Maribor is the second largest city in the country, a university town languishing
on the banks of the Drava river, surrounded by wine-growing hills.
It’s an ancient settlement — folk have been living round
these parts for some 4,500 years — and is worthy of your attention
on several fronts. Here’s 10 reasons you might want to slope off
to Slovenia:
1. Maribor won’t break the bank: It’s a Ryanair destination,
with flights from Stansted currently on offer for £10 (one way,
all taxes included).
2. Grape expectations: Once you get there it’s pretty cheap too
— cheeky little wines in the supermarkets from e1 a bottle upwards,
more assertive appellations from about e5, so smooth they call you by
your first name and a pint of Guinness around the e2 mark (there is, naturally,
an “Irish Pub” in the locality.) Time for another Slovenian
proverb: “Speak the truth, but leave immediately afterwards.”
Splendid! A philosophy which could be helped (or occasioned) by too much
fruit of the vine. See below.
3. Visit a venerable vine: You might imagine, if it has happened to
cross your mind, that the oldest vine in the world is probably in Italy
or France, or maybe as an outside bet Spain. But in fact it’s right
here in the centre of Maribor — the 500-year-old creeper officially
attested by the Guinness Book of Records. You can visit the museum by
the Stari Most (Old Bridge) which actually holds it up or stop by Europe’s
most extensive wine cellars just off Trg Svobode (central square).
The Vinag bodega hold 5.5million litres of wine — and if that’s
not enough to indicate that the Mariborians take their drink seriously,
apparently a 300-year wine war raged between Maribor and a neighbouring
city. Still, those hangovers do make you feel a bit crotchety. Tel 02
220 8111 www.vinag.si
4. Horses for courses: The food in Maribor is hearty, rich and cheap but
be aware — they do eat horsemeat hereabouts, so read the menu carefully
(‘konj’ is the word you probably want to avoid.) For a traditional
munch in Maribor go to Gostilna and Pivnica Starjerc, Vetrinska 30. This
great beer hall and restaurant serves schnitzels, fried chicken and goulashes
in huge portions. The only drawback is — 24 hours later you’re
starting to feel peckish again.
5. Coffee and contemplation: Café culture is alive and well in
Maribor. Order a cappuccino (e1.20) or an Irish coffee (e2.80) at Cajek
Café in one of the main shopping areas, Slovensko Street (itself
packed with intriguing retail opportunities). Take your chess board, wear
a black beret and a local will undoubtedly offer you a game. You might
be shown the Queen’s Gambit Declined, or the famous Slav Opening.
But no matter whether you’re here for chess, chatter, or craic these
cafes are romantic places reminiscent of the time when days had more hours.
6. The naked truth: You can detox, or retox, in Maribor’s aqua
complex. The spa is an institution in these easterly parts, with state-of-the-art
wellness facilities. Water music therapy with an intricate fibre-optic
light show on the ceiling, a hair massage, a Roman bath, an Arctic salts
massage — all at a fraction of what it would cost in Britain. But
be aware that nudity is taken extremely seriously in most places. If you’re
not prepared to appear in the buff, don’t go in. Some spa attendants
will blow you and your unhygienic man-made fibres out of the water. For
more information www.spa-slovenia.com
7. Marvel at Maribor’s spires and steeples: There are three arts,
someone once said — painting, music, and ornamental cake-making.
Architecture is a sub-division of the latter. Nowhere is this more true
than in middle Europe, be it Budapest, Prague or Nuremburg. And Maribor
can easily hold its head high in this company. Old cobbled roads, where
you can hardly see the 20th century, never mind the 21st and tree-lined
squares surrounded by the grandeur and elegance of the Hapsburg’s
handiwork.
 8.
Downhill all the way: The skiing centre of Mariborsko Pohorje situated
on the outskirts of the Maribor is just a bus ride away from the city
centre. In these parts leafy suburbs give way to World Cup ski runs. Over
40km of ski slopes are at your disposal, with Europe’s longest illuminated
slope (some 10km long) as an added bonus — and all at considerably
cheaper prices than in the Alpine resorts.
Tel + 386(0)2 234 6611 or log-on to: www.maribor-pohorje.si
9. Take a hike: In summer the Pohorje mountains offer easy, but stimulating,
walking. A traditional route from the top cable car station traverses
from Bolfenk along the ridge visible from the town, to the botanical garden.
In all you climb about 1,000 feet through some of Europe’s freshest
air and you get views of the sort to make an atheist reconsider.
10. Learn your arias from your elbow: Slovensko Narodno Gledalisce Maribor
(The Slovene National Theatre, Maribor) hosts opera, ballet, classical
concerts and theatre — and all at very affordable prices.
Enjoy an evening at the ballet, dine high on the hog at a traditional
restaurant, quaff late night drinks at your hotel — no more than
£70 all in and you’re back before the cat’s missed you.
Theatre Maribor: Slovenska 27. Tel + 386(0)2 250 6100 or log-on to:
www.sng-mb.si or www.nd-mb.si
 For
information about Slovenia and details of accommodation, visit www.slovenia.info
or call 0870 2255 305.
For information about Maribor visit www.maribor-tourism.si
or call 00386 (0) 2 23 46 611.
Ryanair flies three times a week from London Stansted directly to Maribor,
visit www.ryanair.com.
Malcolm Rogers flew from Belfast.
easyJet flies to Belfast from Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness,
London Gatwick, London Luton, London Stansted, Newcastle and Liverpool
with prices from £19.99 one-way (including taxes) and return from
£39.98 (including taxes) for immediate bookings please log-on to
www.easyJet.com.
Ljubljana
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