| Nice weekend break  The
chic but laid back city of Nice is regarded as the capital of the French
Riviera and makes a first-class centre from which to explore the rest
of the Cote d’Azur. If you’re only going for a weekend the
city itself has plenty to offer and considering its reputation for celeb
glamour and yachtie over-indulgence it’s not that expensive.
History
Between the 5th and 6th century BC Greeks founded a trading post at the
foot of the hill which is known as the Colline du Chateau. The city then
went through the familiar mincing machine of European history ranging
from the Saracens to the Savoy family. However by the 19th century when
the inhabitants realised that life was a beach, Nice took off as a resort
and became one of the first cities on the continent to develop a purely
tourist-based economy. It became particularly popular with the English
aristocracy, including Queen Victoria.
Get your skates on
First thing to do in Nice is amble down the palm-lined seafront and watch
the svelte rollerskaters in black lycra glide effortlessly past. Consider
joining them if you’re similarly svelte and have remembered to bring
your skates. If not simply enjoy the turquoise sea sparkling at your feet
and soak up the warm spring sunshine on your face.
For a more energetic walk climb to the top of Colline du Chateau the rocky
hill where the Greeks first fetched up here more than 2,000 years ago.
Evidence of these inveterate travellers can be seen in the ruined fortifications
which dot the hillside.
Getting your bearings
From your vantage point on the Colline du Chateau you can see the old
city Vieux Nice with its jumbled roof-tops and narrow winding streets
on one side; to the other you’ll see the yacht-filled marina.
Vieux Nice extends between the Quai des Etats-Unis and the Musee d’Art
Moderne et d’Art Contemporain. These car-free, meandering cobbled
alleyways have looked pretty much the same since the early 18th century.
Resisting the temptation to say that the arcade-lined Place Garibaldi
really takes the biscuit walk on past the market stalls and tiny shops
selling Provencal herbs and olives and eventually emerge on the Promenade
des Anglais. The enormous pink-domed wedding cake of a building at No.
37 is the Hotel Negresco where in 1927 Isadora Duncan the American dancer
went to her death. She is the lady I hardly need remind you who proposed
to George Bernard Shaw with the words: “Imagine a child with my
beauty and your brains.”
The Dublin writer, ever the curmudgeon, replied: “Yes, but suppose
the child has my beauty and your brains.”
Nicest thing to see
The Russian Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas on Boulevard du Tzarewicth
was built between 1903 and 1912.
A famous saying notes that there are three great arts: Music, painting
and ornamental pastry making. Architecture, it is said, is a sub-division
of the ornamental cake discipline and when you see the surreal domes of
St. Nicholas Cathedral you’ll probably agree. An essential visit
but note that shorts, short skirts and sleeveless shirts are forbidden.
Oh and if you’re going this weekend that probably applies to those
black Guinness gombeen hats too.
The other must-see church is Sainte Jeanne d’Arc dedicated to
the woman we know as Joan of Arc. The church was built between 1926 and
1933 in reinforced concrete in other words this is not a church for those
expecting traditional religious icons. Instead you’ll get a mélange
of Art Nouveau, Cubism and Surrealism. To bolster our earlier cake-making
allegory its nickname is the Meringue.
Arty crafty
Musee d’Art Moderne et D’Art Contemporan is an architectural
gem itself never mind the works of Matisse, Sear, Yves Klein and Andy
Warhol’s Campbell’s Soup Tin found therein. Cesar’s
pea-green Model T Ford compressed into a 1.6 metre-high block says something
to us all although exactly what would probably require another couple
of bottles of wine.
The Musee des Beaux Artes is housed in the fabulous former residence of
a Ukrainian princess just off the Rue de France is, to employ that useful
cliché, Well Worth A Visit as is the Musee Matisse dedicated to
Henri Matisse (although closed for refurbishment until June). Matisse
who was born in Calais is buried in he cemetery of Monastere de Cimiez
Digs in Nice
Just about the best place in town is the Hotel La Perouse (11 Quai Rauba-Capeu
tel 00 33 4 93 62 34 63 www.hotel-la-perouse.com perched on the cliffs
at the far-end of the beach. Get a sea view and balcony and you’ll
not want to leave the hotel.
Le Grimaldi (15 Rue Grimaldi tel 00 33 4 93 16 00 24) is about half the
price of La Perouse around £75 for doubles.
Where to eat
Nice’s Italian influence is unsurprising Italy is just up the
road. To relish the fusion of these two cuisine super-powers try lunch
at the intimate L’Escalinada 22 Rue Pairoliere. Tucked away amidst
the bustle of the Old City’s market streets look out for local speciality
pissaladiere which is basically a pizza base topped with onion, olive
and anchovy. For lunch-on-the-run pick up a socca (thin crepe made from
chickpea flour) available from any number of street stalls.
For evening meals you’re truly spoilt. La Civette du Cours, a café
bar on Cours Saleya, is a good place to meet the locals and the visitors
while Rene Socca at 2 Rue Mirahetti is unpretentious and a good place
to sample the definitive Nicoise salad.
If you have the urge to splurge or are independently wealthy go for lobster
at L’Ane Rouge, 7 Quai des Deux-Emmanuel.
Le clubbing
The most popular night club in Nice is Wayne’s at 15 Rue de la Prefecture.
Once inside you’ll see why the Nicoise up-for-it locals and discerning
visitors make this slick danceteria their venue of choice.
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