The tuck of the Irish!
Malcolm Rogers picks out his favourite eateries in a grand gastronomic
tour of Ireland.
 By
Malcolm Rogers
Once upon a time Ireland was the worst country in Europe to eat out in
— or at least the worst country that didn’t once have a communist
dictator.
All changed now, of course. Many first-class cafés and restaurants
serve what might loosely be called ‘Irish’ cuisine.
Local meat and fish are of the very highest quality and increasing numbers
of establishments throughout the country actually know how to cook them.
Eating out in Ireland is, however, not cheap. But you don’t have
to break the bank — it’s still possible in many restaurants
to tuck in like a Taoiseach for under 40 and many hotels offer packages
which include dinner.
So with a pocketful of euros and taste buds at the ready, off we go.
Our gastronomic tour of Ireland begins in Dublin. Twenty years ago if
you could find half a dozen places to eat well in the capital you’d
be doing well. Now it’s a centre of excellence for gourmet and guzzler
alike.
Thornton’s Restaurant, complete with a Michelin star, is a must
if you’re a major foodie.
The Winding Stair overlooking the Ha’penny Bridge serves first-rate
Irish food — but also allows space on the menu for the latest culinary
trends; you can go either traditional or trendy.
If you fancy a spot of Italian with Irish ingredients, The Town Bar &
Grill in Kildare Street is guaranteed to get your pheromones working in
overdrive. The décor is average but then we don’t go to restaurants
to eat the furniture.
Our tour now heads up the country, along the M1 to Carlingford and the
delights of Ghan House. Seafood from a few hundred yards away in Carlingford
Lough plus the thrill of the grill is the speciality here. The very definition
of modern Irish cuisine.
Staying in Co. Louth, Fuchsia House in Ardee is probably the finest Indian
restaurant in the country. Authentically prepared oriental food in the
unlikely setting of a plain, 1940s detached house. This place is a legend
in its own brunch time.
The next county up, Down, is a haven of fine restaurants. Anahaia Brasserie
in Warrenpoint is a terrific seafood restaurant with full-on classic technique
combined with crackling innovation.
A bit further round the coast you’ll find The Narrows, Portaferry.
Situated at the mouth of Strangford Lough, fish is — naturally enough
— the main fare. Having said that, if mussels with bacon and garlic
are on the go, don’t hesitate.
The Slieve Donard Hotel, Newcastle, deserves mention here — not
perhaps for its food (although it’s perfectly satisfactory) but
for the magnificence of the dining room whose grandness could have come
from Brideshead Revisited. The views are similarly grand — you really
can see the Mountains of Mourne sweeping down to the sea.
The Oriel in Banbridge is one of the top restaurants in the North, belonging
to that elite class — an Irish restaurant with a Michelin star.
There should probably be more given Ireland’s long and deep involvement
in the tourist trade but at least we’re heading in the right direction.
For an authentic meal in an old coaching house The Downshire Arms in the
middle of Banbridge town is well worth considering.
From Co. Down it’s straight up to Belfast — and if Dublin
has improved in 20 years Belfast has transformed out of all recognition.
Currently top of the range is James Street South, within walking distance
of the City Hall. European and classical cuisine in contemporary surroundings.
Molly’s Yard in the stylish Botanic Avenue offers casual bistro
fare downstairs with more ‘grown up’ food upstairs.
For more traditional Belfast fare The Kitchen Bar in Victoria Square represents
one of the finest dining places of its kind in these islands. Part American
diner, part Spanish tapas bar, part Irish pub, the presence of the Ulster
fry anchors it unmistakably in Norn Iron. The food is hearty, rich and
generally cholesterol-ridden. You won’t find an anorexic prawn on
the plate the size of a satellite dish here.
To take us from gorging back to gastronomy, head for one of the outlying
areas of Ulster, Blacklion in Co. Cavan.
McNean’s Bistro run by Neven Maguire makes some of the finest desserts
this side of Vienna. Cakes come in Cliffs of Moher-sized wedges; oh, and
the first courses aren’t bad either.
Neighbouring Co. Monaghan boasts a very fine restaurant in Carrickmacross.
The Nuremore specialises in serious French cuisine — bon appétit
guaranteed.
Our tour next takes us to Co. Leitrim with no traffic lights, but one
tremendous gastropub.
The Oarsman in Carrick-on-Shannon boasts cosy setting, superb cuisine
and friendly service — an unbeatable hat-trick. Even the fish, newly
caught from the Shannon, seem keen to please. “I’m just a
sole whose intentions are good” could be their fishy motto.
From here make a right turn to Sligo and The Atrium Café at the
Niland Model Arts Centre in the Mall. Well-known chef Brid Torrades serves
seriously tempting, simple food.
Heading
west, in Galway you’re spoilt for choice — Moran’s Oyster
Cottage, Kilcolgan, is possibly the most famous oyster restaurant in Europe.
But fame hasn’t gone to its head — the Galway Bay bivalves
are still as delicious as ever. The price includes the view, and you don’t
get more picturesque than a thatched cottage overlooking a weir on the
southern edge of Galway Bay. Just the place for two consenting adults
to eat.
In Mayo it has to be the Newport House Hotel, Newport. For serious seafood
fans, the day’s catch is listed in the lobby — salmon, lobster,
sea trout. Stay here long enough and you’ll be swimming up river
to spawn. Heading in a southerly direction, Co. Clare’s leading
restaurant is The Cherry Tree in Killaloe. The emphasis here is squarely
on waistline expansion.
Next door in Limerick book a table for two at Ciaran’s, a veggie
place on the university campus. Imaginative, comfortable and quirky.
Kerry is renowned for its top-notch tuck. The Chart House in Dingle specialises
almost exclusively in local produce — from farm to fork in one fell
swoop.
Cork is the very epicentre of Gaelic gastronomic renaissance — everywhere
in the county you’ll find restaurants serving dishes absolutely
leaping with taste. Island Cottage Restaurant, Hare Island, is pricey
enough and you have to get a boat there. However the delicate cooking
with judicious and imaginative touches is the toast of all West Cork’s
jet-setting population. Book well in advance: You could find yourself
sitting beside Jeremy Paxman or John Hurt.
Everything from posh nosh to fast food is available in Wexford’s
maze of streets and it’s probably home to one of the most authentic
Italian restaurants west of Palermo — La Dolce Vita.
Waterford is similarly well served with restaurants but you could scarcely
do better than Arlington Lodge. The former bishop’s palace is recommended
by Les Routiers and now provides high life at low cost for saint and sinner
alike. If you’re on holiday you’ll come here every night.
You’ll be on first name terms with the head waiter. You’ll
probably even invite him over to Britain on holiday. It’s that sort
of place.
Co. Waterford is also well served by The Ship in Dunmore East where you
dine on crab bruschetta or the finest fish and chips this side of the
Pearly Gates.
Heading inland, Chez Hans, Cashel, despite its unpromising name, is probably
one of the finest restaurants in the country serving what might be termed
modern Irish cuisine — with the odd French influence thrown in.
Colourful, sassy dishes including lots of salad — et très
acceptable it is too.
Ireland has become an expensive place to visit over the last few years
but it still has much to offer — the warmth of the people is often
cited by visitors as one of the great pluses.
That warmth is still there —in Ireland, unlike many other countries,
there is an assumption of goodwill between people going about their ordinary
daily business.
That goodwill includes visitors — going to buy a pint of milk really
can turn into a social occasion.
The scenery, music, craic, outdoor activities and history are similarly
ticked by tourists as reasons for returning to the country.
And now it seems we can include cuisine as one of our attractions —
eating out in Ireland can now be a truly memorable experience.
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