| From Bantry Bay
 MALCOLM ROGERS
takes a 100-mile drive in Co. Cork.
“From Bantry Bay up to Derry Quay...” goes the song but you
don’t have to travel right across the country to see some of Ireland’s
finest scenery. You merely have to take a day trip from the town of Bantry
south-west to Goleen, round Schull, Ballydehob, Skibbereen and back to
Bantry again. About 100 miles of zigzagging roads through picturesque,
welcoming villages past coves and inlets with views across the turbulent
Atlantic and all the while shadowed by the wild Caha Mountains.
The route begins in the square in Bantry. Heading south past Bantry House
you’ll come to the West Lodge Hotel after a mile. Past the hotel
take the second turning right on to an unclassified road sign-posted Rooska,
Goat’s Path. After three-quarters-of-a-mile bear right and you’ll
find yourself on a winding boreen heading through some low hills. This
road will take you to the southerly shore of Bantry Bay. Here you can
look across the water at the Caha Mountains. After taking a photograph
you can vow to return one day to climb them.
Continue south-west and in just over five miles bear right along a road
sign-posted Goat’s Path (again). The road rises to some 200ft, and
the Atlantic heaves in to view. The 1,887ft Sugarloaf and 2,251ft Hungry
Hill rise from the Caha Mountains to the right. To the left are the 800ft
hills which form the peninsula’s spine. In just under five miles
follow the road inland and ascend to the 600ft summit of the pass. Wind
steeply down to Kilcrohane with views of Dunmanus Bay far below and drive
to the church. Kilcrohane boasts a post office, a fine bar which serves
sandwiches as well as your weekly units of alcohol and, if you’ve
had enough travelling for one day, B&B.
More hardy souls will want to press on however so turn left at the end
of the village to follow the coast road then after some three miles you’ll
arrive at the little village of Ahakista.
Arundel’s bar in the village offers tea and sandwiches while the
Ahakista bar will also rustle up some lunch. Fortified, bear right and
take the road sign-posted Durrus, Bantry, offering splendid views of Mount
Corin (946ft) and Mount Gabriel (1,339ft). At Durrus you’re on the
Mizen Head Peninsula leading to, of course, Ireland’s most southerly
point. Here you’re almost closer to France than the aforementioned
Derry.
Durrus has a handful of pubs, shops and a church. After paying a visit
to whichever of the three takes your fancy head through the village and
turn sharp right on to the road signposted Goleen, Barley Cove. You’re
now on the R591. In just over three miles bear right on the road signposted
Crookhaven, Mizen Head. You’ll pass beneath the 782ft Knockaphuca
before climbing the slopes of 1,034ft Knocknamdee Hill. From here you’ll
get some of the most impressive views that Europe has to offer.
After some nine miles turn right on the road signposted Barley Cove then
shortly after turn left and cross a causeway.
You’ll now be climbing with the 765ft Mizen Head and the golden
strands of Barley Cove to the right. At the next junction turn left on
to a road sign-posted Schull, Goleen. Follow the shoreline of Crookhaven
Harbour with the village of the Crookhaven nestling in the bay.
Crookhaven is a remote village, but renowned for its safe harbour. Protected
from the ravages of the Atlantic by the shelter of Streek Head, it’s
popular with the yachting fraternity.
The Peninsula on which Crookhaven is situated forks into three heads —
Brow Head, Mizen Head and Three Castles Head. The castles in question
are in fact one — an old O’Mahoney fortress.
From Crookhaven head north to Goleen admiring the views across to Cape
Clear and the islands of Roaringwater Bay. At the far end of Goleen bear
right. From here Fastnet Rock — Ireland’s Teardrop or the
Last Teardrop — is clearly visible. This was the last view millions
of Irish emigrants ever had of their native land — a poignant place.
After two miles heading in a northerly direction, bear right, cross a
bridge and in a mile reach Toormore — you’ll now be on the
R592. Continue on the road signposted Schull.
You’ll soon descend into Schull the place to catch the ferry to
Cape Clear if you’re seriously into views, choppy sea crossings
or bird watching. Schull is one of the best places to stay on the peninsula,
with a good choice of B&Bs, bars and shops. It’s also a good
centre for hillwalking and rambling. Mount Gabriel is a nine-mile round
trek beginning at the Gap Road.
From Schull head to Ballydehob at the very head of Roaringwater Bay. Once
known as the hippy capital of the west, it still has something of a bohemian
atmosphere. The Ballydehob Inn offers B&B as well as refreshment.
From here continue your journey along the N71 through farming countryside
to the town of Skibbereen. This is the hub of west Cork, an ideal centre
for exploring the rugged countryside of one of Ireland’s most spectacular
areas. Needless to say it’s an ideal spot for hill-walking —
Mount Kid, about four miles outside the town, has impressive views of
what’s left of Europe at its westerly extremity.
Being on the edge of the Atlantic also means that sea-anglers, adventurous
sailors and bird watchers are all catered for in some style.
But we have to be on our way and it’s back out on to the road north.
Turn left through the main street, drive to the 1798 memorial at the end
of the town and turn left on to the road sign-posted Clonakilty. You’ll
pass the Dereeny Bridge after which you bear right signposted Cork. In
four miles you’ll reach Drimoleague. Turn sharp left then immediately
right on to an unclassified road. After about three-quarters-of-a-mile
bear left and after a further quarter-mile cross the Clodagh River at
Moyny Bridge.
You’ll immediately start ascending and soon you’ll enjoy panoramic
views of Bull Rock (986ft) on the left and the 1,629ft Mullaghmesha on
the right.
In two miles bear left signposted Bantry. Continue to the 700ft summit,
with fine views across Bantry Bay.
You now follow a long descent into Bantry with the Caha Mountains to the
west and north. Skirt Lough Bofinna on the right, and in one mile bear
left taking the road signposted Colomaine. Begin a long winding descent
below 900ft Knocknaveagh. You’ll soon meet Colomaine Crossroads
where you turn right on to the main N71 Bantry Road. In just over 2 miles
turn right on to an unclassified road signposted Vaughan’s Pass.
Climb steeply along a narrow hill road to the Seskin View car park which
sits at some 600ft.
After a steep winding descent meet a T-junction and turn left to re-enter
Bantry.
 The market town
of Bantry is one of the finest in the west and having scouted the area
round about you’ll be tempted to stay awhile in this gracious place.
Bantry House (open to the public) is a fine example of the gracious living
enjoyed by the Anglo Irish sometimes called the Raj in the Rain.
For further elucidation into the history of west Cork present yourself
at the Bantry Museum on Wolfe Tone Square. As a matter of duty you’ll
also have to visit the Bantry 1796 French Armada Exhibition. Here you’ll
learn the sorry tale of one of Ireland’s great what-ifs. On December
21, 1796 an event caused by Ireland’s unpredictable weather irrevocably
changed the course of Irish and European history. On the shortest day
of the year a French fleet had anchored in Bantry Bay at the behest of
Theobald Wolfe Tone. The French had required little persuasion to continue
their ongoing hostilities with the British. The voyage of the armada had
been beset by problems from the outset, causing delays which were to prove
fatal. By the time the French reached Bantry Bay a gale had blown up preventing
the force from landing. The mission was aborted and the invasion scuppered.
Had the weather not intervened the French, with the help of the sympathetic
locals, would have undoubtedly overpowered the badly-stretched British
garrison in Cork. Gaul and Gael would then have swept through the country
and launched what probably would have been a successful back-door assault
on a badly-stretched and war weary England. But for a spot of bad weather
in Cork Ireland would have been at peace for the last 200 years, the Battle
of Waterloo would never have happened, no German nation would have come
into being and there would have been no world wars.
Oh, and one other thing: French would probably today be the spoken language
of Ireland; or even better — Irish.
It’s utterly amazing what you can learn on a drive through Ireland. | 