Gourmet without the guilt
Lawrence Forrest spent four days cycling around Burgundy in France sampling the countryside and the cuisine.
 For the past 25 years Cycling for Softies has been introducing holidaymakers to the charms of rural France — building an impressive body of satisfied customers with over 75 per cent of return bookings to testify to that fact.
Their concept of cycling for gourmets couldn’t be more appealing — a combination of delicious dinners separated by gentle cycling.
The company is owned and run by Susi Madron with staff in Manchester and in France. They offer a personal, knowledgeable service and know and visit each of their hotels regularly.
Indeed while my wife and I were in Burgundy we met up with Susi as she reviewed another hotel. Only establishments that meet her high standards of comfort and cuisine are used by Cycling for Softies.
The staff cycle the same paths and backroads which they encourage their holidaymakers to use and listen carefully to their needs and comments to plan a memorable holiday.
The holidays attract people from all over the world and all ages from three to 83 years. It seems it really is a holiday for the whole family.
You can start your holiday on any day of the week and stay from three nights to three weeks. It gives you time to go at your own pace and you don’t even have to cycle — some even do it by car.
But that wasn’t for us — although we did choose the ‘super softie’ option by staying in just the one hotel — the Chateau de Fleurville in Burgundy — for four nights and cycling to local villages instead of from hotel to hotel.
With typical attention to detail Cycling for Softies arranged for us to be picked up at the station by Gino — the friendly taxi driver who takes care of transfers to and from the the Chateau de Fleurville.
There we were greeted by Cycling for Softies representative Eddie Magee and owner Monsieur Lehmann. What better welcome could there have been than a glass of Kir — a mix of the local white wine and a shot of cassis — and nibbles?
 After getting settled we were given a talk on all aspects of cycling in the region from Eddie — who provided maps and suggested cycling routes to places of interest. The cycles were all prepared and ready before we arrived — they even ask your height beforehand to choose the right frame size.
On our first day we decided to cycle to Tournus, a small ancient town about 17 kilometeres to the north. Our ride took us on the backroads passing through some delightful villages and along farm tracks. The area is noted for its wildlife and several black kites wheeled overhead on the thermals as we made our way along the tranquil road. Wildflowers and butterflies cover the verges, while baskets of geraniums decorate even the smallest farms. On a bicycle you have it all to yourself.
We passed the villages of Montbellet, Uchizy and Chardonnay, past fields of lush green planted with grapevines, pears and all sorts of crops, stopping occasionally to take in the view and snap photographs. As we neared the town our route was on proper roads where we encountered traffic but to our delight the French drivers proved courteous to cyclists and took great care overtaking.
The town itself is built on the banks of the River Saone. It has a beautiful abbey — the Abbaye Saint Philibert — which was constructed mainly in the 11th and 12th centuries in the Roman style.
The building boasts two towers, of pink and grey stone.
The arches are alternating colours of terracotta and ivory. It is certainly worth a visit. The town also has interesting backstreets with antique and gift shops.
As this holiday was taken on the spur of the moment we had, predictably, failed to brush-up on our French and so Franglaise was the order of the day — but we got by.
Mind you, it’s hard not to as you greet each morning with breakfast on the terrace in glorious sunshine. Aaah, those breakfasts. To most people a simple meal to start the day — to me a comedy of errors.
Am I the only person who always fails to identify which pot holds the coffee and which the cold milk? Still Frosties á la hot coffee can be surprisingly tasty — as can Frosties á la hot milk. If that doesn’t prepare you for the day, what does?
Our next town to explore was Pont du Vaux — a gentle five-kilometre ride which took us along a quiet road and a canal. In fact the only hill was the bridge over the River Soane which flows through Burgundy and eventually joins the River Rhone. It is an impressive 150-yards wide where we crossed.
It was market day when we visited Pont du Vaux and it was full of street traders selling everything from fruit, bread, olives and cheese to clothes and leather goods. After wandering around the town and a coffee and a beer we bought bread, cheese and some wonderful cakes from the patisserie for a picnic on our return journey.
So good, our everyday existence in West London seemed a world away.
Make no mistake, cycling is a wonderful way of exploring the backroads and vineyards of France. And after the day there’s no better feeling then relaxing around the swimming pool in the evenings with the gourmet food and wine.
Cycling for softies? I’d take it any time.
Susi Madron’s Cycling Holidays Ltd
2+4 Birch Polygon, Manchester M14 5HX
Tel 0161 248 8282
email: info@cycling-for-softies.co.uk
www.cycling-for-softies.co.uk
Factfile… Cycline for Softies covers nine areas of France:
Mayenne and Sarthe Chateaux of the Loire Venise Verte Cognac and Charente Dordogne and Garonne Rivers of the Tarn Gascony Provence Burgundy and Beaujolais Alsace
 Sample the gourmet delights
A sample from the menu Starters
l Salad with boned quail
l Stuffed Scottish salmon
l Green salad with scallops, scampi and salmon
l Burgundy snails in fried ravioli pasta
l Home made Foie gras terrine
Main
l Trout fillet in saffron sauce
l Sandre fillet and crustaceans sauce
l Sea bream fillet
l Stuffed guinea-fowl
l Beef fillet
l Minced duck breast
A choice of cheeses and a choice of superb desserts.
Getting there...
Let the train take the strain. We took the Eurostar from Waterloo Station in London — my first time on the service. Check-in is similar to the airport but just half an hour before departure.
The Eurostar terminal boasts a modern departure lounge with cafes, shops and a bar.
The journey was smooth, comfortable and fast. Just two hours and 42 minutes after leaving London you arrive at Paris Gare du Nord. Then it was two stops down the line on the RER to Gare de Lyon where we had time for coffee and a sandwich before taking the TGV straight to Macon.
Travel tip: Make sure you punch your tickets in the ‘composteur’ machine as your ticket is invalid without the date printed by the machine.
At Macon we were met by taxi for the transfer to the hotel.
All travel arrangements are made by Susi Madron's Cycling Holidays Ltd. |
