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Tuck of the Irish
MALCOLM ROGERS investigates where you can tuck in like a
Taoiseach without breaking the bank.
 The
tuck of the Irish has improved immeasurably over the last decade or so.
Ireland used to boast the worst cuisine in Europe — or at least
the worst in a country that didn’t once have a communist dictator
— but now you can be assured of a meal made from hours-fresh local
produce, leaping with taste and served imaginatively.
- L’Ecrivain
109a Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2
01 1 661 1919
12.30-2pm Mon Fri
7-11pm Mon-Sat
www.lecrivain.com
A favourite of Dublin’s gourmets and guzzlers for over a decade,
meat dishes are a speciality, seafood a delight — from bovine brilliance
to hardcore prawn, so to speak. Comfortable surroundings and emphasis
on the traditional (Guinness, oysters, bacon type of thing), are reminiscent
of a time when days had more hours. Expensive — main dishes for
around the e40 mark, starters from e 25.
- L’Gueuleton
1 Fade Street, Dublin 2
01 675 3708
12.30-3pm; 6-10pm Mon-Sat
Rustic French in the heart of Ireland in this no frills bistro with superb
cooking. Desserts include the best jelly and cream in the world —
and no, we’re not exaggerating a trifle. Doesn’t take bookings,
very popular, and very good value (house wines from e15). Wander down
about 6.30pm and you’ll likely get a table.
- Chapter One
18-19 Parnell Square (in the Writers’ Museum), Dublin 1
01 873 2266
www.chapteronerestaurant.com
Few cities can boast as many first-class authors as Ireland — chefs,
however, have been notably thinner on the ground. At Chapter One, in the
Writers’ Museum, you can sample the handiwork of both. Ranked amongst
the pioneers of Irish haute cuisine, this is reckoned to be the top restaurant
on the northside. Reasonable rates — a three course evening meal
for e35.
- Halo
Ormond Quay (in Morrison’s Hotel)
01 887 2400
7.30-10.30am; 12.30-2.30pm; 7-10pm Mon-Sun
www.morrisonhotel.ie/halo-restaurant-dublin
Huge mirrors, outsize works of art and unusual layout create a high impact
environment in which to scoff your short rib of beef or blanched salmon.
Just like the sort of food your mum would make — if she happened
to have been a first class chef with a river full of fresh fish running
along the bottom of her garden. Three course meal for two around the e120
mark, not including wine.
NOTE: Morrison’s are offering a special two-night New Year break,
with prices starting at e650.
- Gruel
68a Dame Street, Dublin 2
01 670 7119
11.30am-9.30pm Mon-Wed
11.30am-10.30pm Thu
11am-10.30pm Fri
11.30am-9pm Sun
Posters on the wall, artsy clientele, hearty fodder. The food in Gruel
is a fairly basic concept — big-fisted, Irish food. The only problem
with their daily ‘roast in a roll’ is that 24 hours later
you begin feeling peckish again. Cheap — from e8.
- Maloti Indian Restaurant
34-35 South William Street, Dublin 2
01 671 0428
12.00-late
Maloti’s cuisine is guaranteed to produce some Harry-met-Sally culinary
moments. Richly decorated alcoves add to the atmosphere, the perfect place
to quaff the enticing range of aperitifs — try the mojito masal
for a perfect overture to some authentic Asian dishes. Medium priced.
- Han Yang
103 Parnell Street
Dublin 1
01 874 6144
The Koreans are rather like the Irish — they can’t play football,
they like good fun and they drink too much. This may explain why Han Yang
is the most exuberant restaurant on Parnell Street. Long and narrow, it
has the smiliest staff on the planet, and prices are cheap! Fine beers
with funny names and rice wine at ridiculously competitive prices.
- Gallagher’s Boxty House
20 Temple Bar, Dublin 2
9am-11.30pm Mon-Sun
www.boxtyhouse.ie
Local produce and lots of flair interpreting historic dishes like the
eponymous boxty (potato pancacke with fillings) sum up Gallagher’s
Boxty House. Other traditional favourites include champ (mashed potato,
cream, onion) prime steaks and huge shanks of lamb. Puddings are dedicated
to those with a flexible take on diets. Cheap eats.
- Browne’s Restaurant
22 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2
01 638 3939
12.30-2.30pm; 6.30-10pm Mon-Sun (not open for lunch on Sat)
www.brownesdublin.com
The fish here are so fresh they still look surprised. You’ll be
hard put to find more cultured chow than at Browne’s Restaurant.
Part of Browne’s luxury boutique hotel, this upscale eatery has
long been something of trailblazer of culinary excellence. With a wine
list as long as the Old Testament, you’ll be sure to find something
to suit your palate. Moderately pricey, mains e25 to e30.
- Bang Café
11 Merrion Row, Dublin 2
01 676 0898
12.30-3pm; 6-10.30pm Mon-Wed
12.30-3pm; 6-11pm Thus-Sat
www.bangrestaurant.com
Bang Café serves, naturally enough, a mean plate of BANGers and
mash with chive mash and mustard shallot jus. At the other end of the
adventure scale, if all you need is dove, then order up the roast squab
pigeon with foie gras. Pan European cooking, not too expensive (mains
e16 to e25) but good value — in fact, bang for buck.
- Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud
21 Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2
01 676 4192
12.30-2.15pm; 7.30-10.15pm Mon-Sat
www.restaurantpatrickguilbaud.ie
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, one of Dublin’s leading restaurants
for over a decade, serves cuisine to satisfy the most exacting gastronaut.
Expensive, but a grandiloquent setting, superb cooking and first-class
service makes for a memorable meal.
- Da Vincenzo
133 Upper Leeson Street, Dublin 4
01 660 9906
12.30-11.45pm Mon-Sat
1-10pm Sun
For pizzas, Dublin has some seriously awful takeaways. Da Vincenzo’s
is not one of them. The pizza and pasta here are from a solid, neighbourhood
Italian menu, with friendly service and a decent wine list. This is no
place for those with bird-like appetites — the emphasis here is
squarely on waistline expansion. Cheapish — mains from e15.
- The Lord Edward
23 Christchurch Place, Dublin 8
01 454 2420
12.30-2.30pm; 6-10.15pm Mon-Fri
6-10.15pm Sat
They say that for a truly authentic Irish dinner your mother should be
gently nagging you throughout the meal. At the Lord Edward, above the
pub of the same name, proceedings are so homely that you could imagine
it happening. Expect traditional Irish cuisine at this decidedly old-fashioned
eatery. Moderately priced, mains around e20.
- Bewley’s Oriental Café
Grafton Street, Dublin 2
www.bewleysgraftonstreet.com
Probably Ireland’s oldest café, Bewley’s is an institution
with Dubliners. The grand old dame of Dublin cafés was founded
by the Quaker Bewley family some 160 years ago, and they’ve been
percolating for the punters ever since. Now that the Grafton Street branch
is an oriental café, the atmosphere has changed somewhat —
but it’s still an essential visit. |
